Chremsel on the last day of Pesach, stuffed cabbage on
Simchas Torah, kreplach on erev Yom Kippur— surely there are those who wait to
make these delicacies, to know they are serving their families traditional
foods made in a traditional way. Surely, there are those who serve those
goodies knowing their family waits for it, and knowing that they are serving a
special Shabbos Yom Tov food. Some of the best writers regale us with stories
of their Bubbys whipping up dishes, bringing their tantalizing treats to life
on the page in a way that makes your mouth water. They evoke the aromas, tastes
and closeness of Shabbos and Yom Tov, making us wistful for the days that come
weekly or once a year.
But not every special dish is special in that way. In fact,
perhaps the kitchen aspect of our lives should not weigh so heavily on us as we
seek its meaning. Sometimes our cooking
is important because of what it means for just a few people.
The people who count most.
My mother in law doesn’t get up really early in the morning
to be in the kitchen (though she is always up early), she doesn’t make a lot of
old recipes that have been handed down through many generations (though she
does make a few of those), and she didn’t have a hard life growing up in
Europe. No, my mother in law grew up in the ‘50s in Boro Park, and she has
great stories to tell my kids, and she often does. Her days of making gefilte
fish from scratch, and chopping up liver are behind her, and not something her
grandchildren experienced. Yet, her food, and in particular her soup evokes one
thing for my kids: love.
My in laws live in Florida now, and are not in New York all
that often. When they come, it’s usually only for a few days. But my mother in
law will almost always make her soup for us to put in the freezer. It’s not a
fancy soup, or very hard to make, but the kids wait for “Bubby Soup.” On those crazy Thursday nights, when we are
expecting a big crowd for Shabbos, (and for some reason the kids still want
supper) they will always ask, “Do we have any Bubby Soup in the freezer?”
Could I make it myself? Absolutely, and then we would have
it all the time, but what’s special about the soup goes so far beyond its
actual taste.
No Chanukah party is complete without the warming embrace of
Bubby’s soup. There are latkes there too, and they are excellent, but if there
is one thing everyone would miss, it would be that liquid love. Coming to our
house for a bas mitzvah party, or Shabbos, or just a visit, my father in law
will walk in and say, “I have soup for you in the car—can we put it in the
freezer?” And then, while we are shivering in the winter in New York, and Bubby
and Zaidy are walking around Miami in shirtsleeves, we can have our soup and
let the spoonful of vegetables and barley warm us inside and out.
.Don’t get me wrong, my mother in law is a good cook who in her time made two weddings in her house, cooked everything from scratch for huge Shabbosim, and Yomim Tovim, and makes a really good fluffy and crispy potato kugel. To people besides her children and grandchildren she isn’t particularly known for this soup. It isn’t traditional in the sense that everyone knows someone who makes it. It isn’t a must-have at a Shabbos or Yom Tov meal. It’s not a recipe that goes back very far at all. It’s just something Bubby made, that everyone loved, so she makes it as often as she can, and lets us stock up on it. She lets the kids know how much she loves them and that she is thinking of them. It’s better than the trips to the pizza store and the presents she always brings. She doesn’t ask us if we want it, or if we need it, because she knows that it is always welcome, always the right size and always appreciated. And it evolved into this naturally, without any sort of mystical component. Just love.
A few years ago my children asked my husband if she made
“Bubby Soup” when he was a kid. He responded, “Yes, but we just called it
soup.”
4 comments:
beautiful. just beautiful. send it to new yorker magazine instead. or the jewish press
This piece was not "rejected."
The editors of the magazine understood that their pages were not an appropriate venue for such a piece. They feared its splendor, and the possibility that it would soil all of their other content - past, present and future - by comparison.
You don't display the Hope Diamond at a truck stop.
This piece's rightful place is IcebergCarwash, "Oozing excellence since 2008."
"like"
Every time I read this it makes me cry.
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